If you haven’t sampled many Virginia wines in recent years, you should. The industry here has truly come a long way in the past several decades. Like any infant wine region, Virginia wines had humble beginnings, and many local wine lovers initially were not impressed. Some complained that the prices were too high. And many people gave up sampling these wines altogether. Bad decision. In recent years, quality has shot upwards and many wineries have focused on offering at all price points.
Not surprisingly, one of the state’s first wineries—the Williamsburg Winery–produces some of the state’s most exciting wines. The winery produces top quality because its founder, Patrick Duffeler, invests in top talent. In 2002, he brought on Napa Valley winemaker Mathew Meyer, whose credentials include studying oenology and viticulture school at the University of California-Davis. Meyers launched his career at Grgich Hills winery—the winery started by Napa pioneer winemaker Mike Grgich, who made the Chardonnay that shook the world when it won at the 1976 tasting of Paris. Meyers then went on to make award winning wines at Heitz Cellar, which makes some exclusive wines near St. Helena in Napa Valley. Among them is the Martha’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, which is a highly regarded premium Napa wine. In 1999, the Wine Spectator selected the 1974 vintage to be it as one of the Top 12 wines of the 20th Century.
Not surprisingly, the Williamsburg winery has been making some award winning wines on Meyer’s clock. Among them are awards from prestigious UK-based Decanter magazine, which dubbed the winery’s he 2006 Acte Chardonnay as among the “world’s best wines.” That is pretty substantial praise for one of Virginia’s humble wines! This wine region surely have come a long way. And this wine retails on the Winery website for just $16. Who says Virginia’s quality wines are not affordable? So start tasting them. Meyer recently gave me a tasting of some his wonderful wines at the winery, and all were quite impressive! Among them were:
The Willamsburg Reserve Chardonnay, 2006. This wine is made fermented and aged in French oak and undergoes malolactic fermentation, resulting a wine with toasty and creamy qualities. The winery recommends serving it with “grilled swordfish, steak, grilled prawns, pheasant, and ‘duck a l‘orange.’” If you serve it with steak, make sure you include a nice creamy béarnaise sauce! Decanter awarded this wine as “commended” in 2009. It retails for just $24 a bottle on the winery website online.
Sir Samuel Argall Dry Riesling, 2007. The grapes from this wine come from all the way from Washington State, where Riesling thrives. As a result, it cannot be sold in inter-state commerce because of unfortunate wine regulations. But if you are lucky enough to see it at the retail level in Virginia or if you make you way to the winery, grab one—or more—bottles. This is a light, crisp dry wine with a lemony profile. It’s the perfect match for a light fish dish with lemon or something oily like fried chicken as it will cleanse the palate between bites. It’s a refreshing picnic or summer sipping wine. And it retails for just $10.50 a bottle.
Gabriel Archer Reserve, 2005. This Bordeaux (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc) blend combines only select wines each year from the best barrels of the vintage. It is only made in the better vintage years, ensuring it always meets a certain standard of quality. Like the other reds, it was rich with good acidity, and soft and smooth tannins. Decanter gave the 2006 Gabriel Archer Reserve a bronze metal, and gave the 2005 a “commended” award. It retails for $32 on the winery’s website.
The Virginia Trianon. This wine is the Winery’s Cabernet Franc, a grape that is doing quite well in Virginia. It has nice acidity and soft tannins, with red fruit flavors (cherry and raspberry). It retails for $32 a bottle.
Adagio, 2007. Last but not least was the Adagio, the winery’s most premium wine, carrying a price tag of $65. It is a rich blend of 40 percent Petite Verdot, 40 percent Merlot, and 20 percent Cabernet Franc. The Winery describes it as: “An initial hint of black cherries progresses into more mature dark fruits such as figs and dates. Mixed in with the fruit is a lovely note of fresh cocoa, along with a bit of soy and eucalyptus. Earthiness and minerality blend agreeably with the fruit.”
You can look for these around town, in Virginia wine shops, or shop online at the winery’s website. Another option is to drive a couple hours to the winery and enjoy them there!
